It
is in the unimaginably fertile Ganga delta that the ancient kingdoms
with lilting names like Anga, Banga, Kalinga flourished at least
3000 years ago. It is in Bihar and neighboring Uttar Pradesh region
that the Buddha and Mahavira preached the gentle way of life which
changed human history. It is in Orissa that the cataclysmic Kalinga
war was fought, an experience that chastened Emperor Ashoka into
becoming one of the greatest rulers of ancient times. It is in
Bengal where the British metamorphosed from traders to supreme
rulers of India - an historical event that altered India's national
psyche for centuries. As powers and persona rose and fell, history
shaped the people of the plains.
It is in the east that early industrialization of India took place,
due to the incredibly rich hinterland, access to river and ocean
commercial transport and British investment in technology. Many of
India's largest corporate houses are still based in Calcutta. Most
of India's steel industry is located in Bihar and West Bengal region
due to its proximity to coal/ iron ore belt here.
In strange contrast are the States in the north east, only lightly
touched by time and history. Here the Ahoms came to conquer from
across the borders in ancient times, but settled down to integrate
peacefully. It is here in the dense forests the rhinos thunder,
orchids beckon and birds and butterflies paint the air in brilliant
shades.
The tribal life goes on as always, serenely unconcerned about modern
upheavals.
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands present yet another vista - emerald
dollops in the sapphire ocean still primeval in their pristine
beauty.
Discover the Soul of Kolkata
Kolkata (prior known as Calcutta) is the largest city in
India, indeed one of the largest in the world. It is three
hundred years old, traces its history to the landing of Robert
Clive on the banks of the Hooghly beside three villages.
Established as a British trading post in the 17th century, the
city rapidly grew, acquiring a life and vibrancy of its own. The
capital of West Bengal, Kolkata is the major entry point.
If Delhi is the elegant capital of the nation, and Mumbai its
major industrial city, then Kolkata ranks as the intellectual
capital. Poets, thinkers and film directors of international
renown hail from this city where avant grade plays and art
exhibitions go on show practically every day of the year.
Kolkata was the first headquarters of the East India Company,
and some of its best known monuments were built by the British
trading house. However, the city has, within its 300 years'
history, hosted other communities both from other parts of India
as well as abroad - Chinese, Armenians, Jews - all of whom have
left their imprint in pockets of Kolkata.
Kolkata's glory is still reflected in the buildings of
Chowringhee and Clive Street, know as Jawaharlal Nehru Road and
Netaji Subhash Road respectively. It is a city which leaves
no-one indifferent-fascinating, effervescent, teeming with life,
peoples, cultures. The impact can be a shock at first; the
rickshaws, cars, brightly painted lorries, trolley buses, the
cries of the street vendors, labourers hard at work on the
construction of the vast underground railway, the noise and
colour of the huge New Market, the bustle of the crowds... but
soon the jumbled impressions will sort themselves out. Central
Kolkata is best viewed in perspective around the rolling green
of the Maidan, 3 sq km of parkland where the early-morning yoga
sessions provide for the city dwellers a relaxation from the
stresses of urban life. For relaxation of another kind, visit
the Indian Museum, one of the finest in Asia. Other attractions
include the huge white marble Victoria Memorial; Raj
Bhawan, the residence of the Governor of Bengal; the
Octherlony Monument and the headquarters of the Rama Krishna
mission. To the north of the city is the silent beauty of the
Belur Math and across the river, the Botanical Gardens
(with a 200 years old Banyan tree, reputedly the largest in the
world) and the Kali temple of Dakshineshwar.
Kolkata has a soul. For a complete change, take a plane
or boat from Kolkata to Port Blair in the Andaman and Nicobar
Islands, the peaceful sun-soaked paradise in the Bay of Bengal.
The Magic of the Toy Train
For
those who don’t wish to fly, try taking a train to Darjeeling
from Kolkata. The last leg of the journey from New Jalpaiguri
takes place on a miniature railway which winds through deep
jungles, tea gardens and pine forests. It is one of the great
journeys of the world. Darjeeling is an unspoilt, English-style
hill station straddling a mountain slope and surrounded with
high green hills covered with coniferous trees, with massive
drops into the enchanting valley below. It commands a stunning
view of Kanchenjunga (8586 metres), particularly from nearby
Tiger Hill, and the sunrise which breaks over the mountains is
one of the most beautiful on earth. Many Tibetan refugees live
here, and it is also the home of the celebrated Sherpa Tenzing,
as well as being the headquarters of the India Mountaineering
Institute. The tea to which the town gives its name is the
finest in the world; where better to sample it than here.
Invigorated by the fresh mountain air, stroll along the winding
paths, marvelling at the views of the massive range of
snowcapped peaks which appear in all their glory as the swirling
mists clear. See the Buddhist prayer flags fluttering in the
breeze; it is possible to visit one of the Buddhist Monasteries,
such as Ghoom which enshrines an image of the Maitreyee Buddha.
Only two and a half hours away by bus or taxi is Kalimpong, a
quaint bazaar town set in rolling foothills and deep valleys at
the foot of the mighty Himalayas.
Enchanting Holy Cities
Orissa, the eastern state of the Bay of Bengal, has a
rich tradition of classical dance, music, silverware,
handicrafts, sculpture, fine beaches, bird and wildlife
sanctuaries. The three great temple towns of Bhubaneswar, Puri
and Konark constitute, like Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, a "Golden
Triangle", but here with the emphasis strongly on temples –
temples of the most glorious and stunning kind. Bhubaneswar
is the capital of Orissa and the Temple City of India. Seven
thousand temples once ranged around the sacred Bindusagar Lake
in Old Bhubaneswar; about five hundred of them are still
standing. The great Lingaraja Temple dedicated to the
Lord Shiva is the largest of these, and is the site of a major
Shivartri festival in February-March, on the night of the new
moon. On the coast, 60 km south of Bhubaneswar, lies Puri,
one of the four holiest Hindu cities in India and now also being
developed as a beach resort; relax in the refreshing sea after
wondering at the famous 12th century Jagannath
Temple, the home of Lord Jagannath, the Lord of the World,
"the Formless God". Many travellers try to be in Puri around
June or July, when it is possible to join in one of India’s
greatest festivals the spectacular Rath Yatra or "Car" Festival,
when a concourse of pilgrims gather to pay homage to the images
of the deity drawn on their massive wooden chariots.
Splendidly
alone amidst the sand dunes which rise from the blue waters of
the bay, the Sun Temple of Konark marks the pinnacle of a
great Kalinga achievement in temple architecture dating back to
the 13th century. It was built as a chariot for the
Sun God, complete with wheels and horses. The sculpture is among
the most stupendous in India. After seeing these, and so many
other, remarkable sights, relax with the friendly people by the
flat and beautiful Chilka Lake, or in the little beach resort of
Gopalpur-on-Sea. The excitement and stimulation of busy Kolkata,
the tranquillity and ecstatic beauty of the Himalayas, the
dream-like quality of the ancient holy cities - what spectacular
and varied offerings eastern India has to give.
There are several excursions from here to places which offer
some of the finest panoramas in the world. To the north, the
mountain state of Sikkim is a land of peace and
tranquillity high up in the mountains. It is a Himalayan
wonderland with its lovely views and exotic orchids, and its
forest-trails. The capital Gangtok, on a ridge flanking
the Ranipool River, is overshadowed by Mt. Kanchenjunga,
the world's third highest peak, a truly spectacular sight that
will imbue you with awe and wonder. Sikkim is attractive equally
for the sightseer, the adventure sports enthusiast and those
interested in Buddhism and Tibetology. Buddhism is the
predominant religion here, with many fine old monasteries rich
with frescoes, religious paintings on silk and statues of the
Buddha's various incarnations. The Institute of Tibetology, the
only one of its kind in the world, was set up in Gangtok by the
erstwhile ruler to promote research on Mahayana Buddhism, and on
the language and traditions of Tibet. Lower down the hill is the
famed orchid sanctuary where 500 species of orchids indigenous
to Sikkim are cultivated.
Sikkim offers several treks that lead through pine forests,
through picturesque valleys, monasteries and to mountains lakes.
It is also the base for mountaineering expeditions and the
rivers Teesta and Rangeet offer excellent river rafting.
Discover the ancient beautiful Royal Chapel of Tsuk-La Khana, or
enjoy the profusion of wild flowers in bloom throughout the
year. Here in orchid-strewn Sikkim the visitor becomes like an
explorer who has found a forgotten land.
North East
Even further east of India is the state of Assam whose
capital, Guwahati, has an inspired location on the banks
of the River Brahmaputra. Amidst Assam's verdant lushness are
two important wildlife sanctuaries, Manas and
Kaziranga, both best known for their population of one
horned Indian rhinoceros, a species that faced extinction. The
tiger reserve of Manas is also rich in other varieties of
wildlife. Much of the rest of the state is devoted to tea
plantation which yield the strong Assam leaf popular all over
the world. Bordering Assam to the north is the beautiful
mountain kingdom of Bhutan.
Meghalaya is one of the country's newest states with its
capital at Shillong. For long a summer retreat of the
British, the beautifully kept golf course and several English
country cottages testify to another influence besides the local
one. Beautiful lakes and waterfalls, hillside cottages, a large
university, and the popular Bara Bazaar are quaint aspects of
this town which all led to the state being popularly described
as "The Scotland of the East". Another state in the eastern side
is Tripura, quite off the beaten track, is a storehouse
of tribal crafts and culture as well as music and dancing. In
the centre of this patch of intense greenery is the capital,
Agartala, where gracious buildings were once the palaces of
Tripura's royal family.
Of all India's states, Bihar is the one most intimately
linked to the Buddha's life, resulting in a trail of pilgrimages
which have come to be known as the Buddhist circuit. The very
name Bihar is derived from the world 'vihara', which means
Buddhist monastery. The Buddhist trail begins at the capital
city, Patna, where a noteworthy museum contains of Hindu
and Buddhist sculptures. The Khuda Baksh Oriental Library has
rare Muslim manuscripts including some from the University of
Cordoba in Spain. 40 km away, Vaishali was the site for the
second Buddhist Council as the presence of ruins testify. 90 km
south of Patna is Nalanda which translates as 'the place
that confers the lotus' (of spiritual knowledge). A monastic
university flourished here from the 5th to the 11th
century. It is said to have contained nine million books, with
2,000 teachers to impart knowledge to 10,000 students who came
from all over the Buddhist world. Lord Buddha himself taught
here and Hieun Tsang, the 7th century Chinese
traveller, was a student. Ongoing excavations have uncovered
temples, monasteries and lecture halls.
Rajgir, 'the royal palace', 12 km south, was the venue
for the first Buddhist Council. The Buddha spent five years at
Rajgir after having attained enlightenment, and many of the
remains at Rajgir commemorate various incidents, the hill of
Gridhrakuta being perhaps the most important, as this is where
the Buddha delivered most of his sermons. Bodhgaya is the
spot where Lord Buddha attained enlightenment, with the
Mahabodhi Temple marking the precise location. Bihar's Buddhist
circuit has modest back-up facilities by way of accommodation,
international dining and surface transport.