The
dominant features of south India are the tropical climate less harsh
than the northern States, lush green tropical vegetation in the
coastal areas and the architecture, culture, languages and lifestyle
which had remained essentially Dravidian at the core in spite of
repeated exposures to alien influences.
Since the southern culture evolved millennia before the modern State
borders did, there is a racial, cultural and linguistic homogeneity
here that makes visitors perceive the four major southern States
together simply as 'south India', albeit mistakenly.
In spite of the seeming similarity, each State has different
scenery, festivals, architecture and subtle cultural variations to
offer, each State in its own right a fascinating tourist
destination. Pondicherry and Lakshadweep are again utterly different
from the four traditional States of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh,
Karnataka and Kerala. The leitmotif of southern culture is its
tapestry of magnificent temple architecture going back to the 6th
century, the unaltered traditions of food, religion and lifestyle,
handicrafts, heritage of sandalwood, silk, rosewood and brass, and
of course the grandeur of classical dance and music.
This is a land of temples, a land of the devout where new wonders
await - the profusion of orange flowers, the shade of the banyan
tree, and the soft beat of distant drums as yet another festival
starts...
Chennai - A Kaleidoscope of Moods
For the visitor wishing to explore southern India
extensively, Chennai, the capital of the state of
Tamil Nadu, is the most convenient point of entry. Tamil
Nadu is a bastion of Hinduism, whose past endures into the
present. Temples with towering spires called gopurams are a
common feature of this state, seldom seen anywhere else in the
country. Temples in Tamil Nadu were the fulcrum of society and
even today art forms that have their origin in religious worship
continue to colour daily life. Notable among these are splendid
bronzes of deities, painting on glass and Bharatnatyam
(classical dancing), an evocative dance form.
Chennai is the home of the ancient Dravidian civilisation, one
of the oldest articulate cultures in the world. It is a city
where the landscape of the past lives easily with more recent
history. This busy, efficient metropolis is a good centre to
plan a journey over South India. Make use of the international
and domestic airport and the massive network of trains and
buses. The friendliness, sincerity and colourfulness of the
people can slowly be absorbed while taking a stroll over the
sandy stretch of beach known as the Marina, or visiting Fort St.
George, built by the British East India Company. So many of the
street names reflect the city’s long association with other
cultures; China Bazaar Road, Armenian Street, Portuguese Church
Street for instance. In 78 AD, the Apostle St. Thomas was
martyred in the city, but the Christian faith now finds graceful
expression in the many churches, particularly the San Thome
Cathedral. View the whole panorama from the Chennai lighthouse,
or experience the culture from ground level in the temples, art
galleries or museums. Yet another facet of this surprisingly
diverse state is two hill stations - Ootacamund and
Kodaikanal. Both are little patches of England, being much
loved by the expatriate population of the Raj. Both places
provide delightful relaxation during an extended tour of the
south. Alternatively, for a different style of relaxation, visit
the attractive French-style coastal town of Pondicherry,
the south of Chennai. French is still widely spoken, and seaside
villas and cobbled streets are more reminiscent of the south of
France than the south of India!
A Myriad of Temples
The devout Dravidian people of the south live and breathe
their ancient religion. Nothing, however, can really prepare a
visitor for the temples, where images of the quiet bustle of the
vast halls, the huge gopurams completely covered by coloured
sculptures of gods and goddesses, the sight of bare feet walking
across cool slabs, the heady smell of incense and the chime of
the temple bell rung by priests and the faithful leave
entrancing impressions. Rustic carts drawn by oxen with their
brightly coloured painted horns, smiling villagers harvesting
the hay at the side of the road - these will be some of the
memorable features of the short journey from Chennai to the
famous temple town of Mahabalipuram. A swim off the
glorious beach will refresh you after absorbing the wonders of
the romantic shore temples and of Arjuna’s Penance, the huge
rock carvings of animals and gods. There are so many impressive
temple towns in South India - nearby Kanchipuram, also
called Kanjeevaram, with its spectacular gopurams, visible from
miles away, is famous throughout the country as the centre where
lustrous silk sarees are woven. Likewise, other magical sounding
places - Thanjavur, which is an important centre for
bronze figure casting, Chidambaram, Tiruchirapalli,
and most of all the pilgrim centre of Madurai - one of
the oldest cities in Southern India - with its dramatic and
lively Meenakshi Temple, is dedicated to the fish-eyed
goddess.
In the neighbouring state of Karnataka lie the
stone-carved temples of Belur and Halebid. Relive
the exciting era of the Hoysalas, who flourished around the 12th
century, by examining the endless stories which the sculptural
detail portrays the war, the hunt, the animals, the dancing
girls and, of course the gods. Hassan, with a comfortable
hotel, makes the perfect base from which to explore the riches
of Belur and Halebid. Also a short distance away, situated on
top of a hill in Shravanbelagola is the massive 120
meters tall statue of Lord Bahubali has been carved out of a
single piece of granite in 183 AD, dwarfing the landscape. Every
12 years, the figure of Gomateswara is ritually bathed by
priests and witnessed by millions of devotees in one of the most
colourful festivals of the austere Jain religion.
The Warm Beauty
Kerala - land of surf, spice and magic, an ancient
crossroads of cultures. Along the harbour, rows of antediluvian
Chinese fishing nets drawn up on the golden sand, Jewish
synagogues, Portuguese forts, Dutch and Syrian churches, and of
course beautiful Indian temples and palaces... backed by
mountains, fringed with surf, rich in spice plantations and
coconut palms, relaxed and tranquil under the warm tropical sun.
Kerala's multitude of faiths - Islam, Judaism and a host of
sects of Christianity and Hinduism - all coexist harmoniously in
a state that is known for its Marxist inclinations! With foreign
influences as disparate as Chinese and Portuguese, Arab and
Dutch, Kerala is the spice coast of India. Edge by a thread of
unbroken beachline, the state's heart is composed of intensely
green paddy fields and a unique network of rivers and lagoons.
Upland Kerala, relatively little visited, is composed of hills
thickly wooded with teak and rubber. It is here that Kerala's
most previous spices are grown in carefully nurtured
plantations: cardamom, pepper and nutmeg.
Trivandrum, the state capital, has an exceptionally fine
museum set in an amusement park. 16 km away laze gloriously on
the unspoiled and beautiful coconut beaches of Kovalam,
India’s finest beach resort. Many visitors stay in Kovalam,
driving into Trivandrum for sightseeing trips, rather than the
other way round. Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in
Trivandrum, and Padmanabhapuram Palace, a short drive away are
important monuments. Cochin, with a fine natural harbour,
has been Kerala's centre of maritime trade for innumerable
centuries. A five hour drive from Cochin leads into thickly
forested hills, past rubber and spice plantations, and into
southern India's tea growing district headquartered at the
charmingly old world Munnar. From Kottayam to
Alleppey is a world of palm fringed waterways, a route which
is covered by motor launch. Elderly sailboats, long barges
transporting tons of coconuts and tiny skiffs used to transport
children to school are common sights on these backwaters. While
in the area, move into the hinterland and hear the trumpeting of
an elephant and the chatter of monkeys running wild in the green
and watery Periyar Game Sanctuary.
Joyous Dance of the South
A visit to the south may well coincide with one of the many
magnificent festivals; if not, don’t worry, as there will
usually be a celebration of some sort in every lively village
here. Kerala's traditions of dance forms, which originated from
temple worship, can be witnessed at regularly held performances.
Lecture-demonstrations of the most spectacular of these -
Kathakali - are held daily at many centres in Cochin.
Experience the beauty and elegance of the Kathakali mask dance,
which depicts tales of the gods, heroes, demons and fabulous
beasts of Indian legend, or the grace of Kalaipattu, the martial
art of Kerala. The Bharatnatyam dance originated in the
south; the rhythm of the music, the colours of the costumes and
the grace of every stylised movement will spellbind the
onlooker. Teyyam, at once an act of worship and visual feast;
temple festivals complete with caparisoned elephants;
Kalaripayata, the indigenous art of self defence; all are a part
of Kerala's remarkable heritage of performing arts and can be
witnessed at various centres in Cochin and Trivandrum. Join the
happy and smiling throng of revellers as fireworks explode into
the night sky, brightly coloured flowers are scattered in the
air, gloriously bedecked elephants and cows join the procession
in the street, everyone dancing to the beat of the tabla sights
and sounds all entwined with the haunting rhythm of ancient
Sanskrit Mantras (chanting).
Just off the coast of Kerala are a widely scattered group of
coral islands - 36 of them - collectively known as
Lakshadweep. They form part of the Union of India and are
one of the country's newest tourist destinations. Ten of the
islands are inhabited by simple, peace-loving folk whose
language is close to that spoken in Kerala. The islanders have
lifestyles and occupations that revolve around coconut
cultivation, coir matting and fishing. Even today, nothing is
actually produced in the islands themselves, and everything
comes from the 'mainland', as India is somewhat quaintly
referred to there. The crystal clear waters shimmer with
tropical fish, and the islands are famous for their corals and
water-sports facilities.
Karnataka, with its capital at Bangalore, is home
to a fascinating legacy of richly carved temples, imposing
mosques and trappings of a royal past. Bangalore, at once a
modern centre of India’s 'non-smoke’ industries, including
aerospace, machine-tools and electronics, a shopper's paradise
and a gracious legacy of the British, it is renowned as much for
its industrial plants as for its silk saris, and for the
sprawling Cubbon Park which lies at the heart of the city, as
also its prestigious race course.
Mysore, the gracious sandalwood capital of the erstwhile
princely state, has a profusion of palaces and museums. It is
possible to stay in the one-time home of an ex-Maharajah, now
the Lalitha Mahal Hotel of gleaming white beauty. Incense is
manufactured in the city, and the sweet and fragrant smells of
jasmine and rose and musk will linger in the air and in the
memory. Nearby Srirangapatnam is linked to the memory of
one of the old state's best known rulers - Tipu Sultan.
Somnathpur, a few miles away, has a magnificently carved
temple. Lose yourself in the strange and beautiful ruins at
Hampi.
Andhra Pradesh's capital city, Hyderabad has the
atmosphere of an Arabian Nights fairy tale. Whimsical palaces,
erstwhile stately homes and crowded bazaars filled with shops
selling Hyderabadi pearls, incense and copper utensils
characterise the city, while in the distance looms Golconda
Fort. The city's historical connection traces itself to the
rulers or Nizams whose wealth was legendary. Rooms full of
jewels and currency notes, a garage full of gleaming Rolls
Royces are all now part of history, but a unique culture lives
on, colouring the city with its distinctive charm. The epicurean
tastes of this most exalted royal house of princely India gave
rise to a fabled cuisine based on painstaking preparations and
slow cooking. Much of Hyderabad's old town can be covered on
foot. The city's important landmarks include Charminar, a 16th
century gateway; the Salar Jung Museum which exhibits priceless
treasures alongside trivia that made up the personal collection
of the owner; Mecca Mosque and Golconda Fort.
Nagarjunakonda is the site of ongoing excavations which
have revealed Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries.
India awaits you
Kanya Kumari (Cape Comorin) in Tamil Nadu, India’s Lands End, washed by three seas, where at the time of the full moon it is possible to watch the sun set and the moon rise at the same time, a popular pilgrimage town, the end of the railway line... from here to Jammu and Kashmir is over 3,300 kilometers, and the railway journey will take three days, passing through the whole staggering diversity of India – the great plains, towering mountains and rich forests, the serene temple towns and lively resorts, thriving cities, tranquil hill stations and tiny villages, the people, the history, the wildlife, the cultures... such a wealth of beauty and mystery and laughter in this graceful and gentle land. An experience both indescribable and unforgettable as only India can be. She is waiting for you, and has been for 5,000 years. All you have to do is arrive; the wonder of India - only nine hours away.